Hurricane Earls’s swell began to hit Wednesday morning with chest high clean sets and a bonus arrives this weekend with more powerful swell as the system deepens and the fetch expands.
The first real swell of the summer comes just two weeks before the end of the summer season but this one will not fade quickly. The forecast calls for Earl to strengthen to a Category 3 hurricane near Bermuda Thursday evening, it will also expand in size. Wider means bigger surf when the swell angle is pointed at the coast-- which it is. As a bonus, Sunday the system will double the size of its fetch as it undergoes a baroclinic widening process south of Newfoundland. The easterly swell will increase from 11 to 13-14 seconds from the northeast. Not only will this extend the duration of waves but this angle may limit closeouts with higher the periods.
Offshores: Increasing clouds and rain will delay the daily sea breeze with SW flow dominating the morning through Noon.
We will have Earl swell into Tuesday before the surf backs off only to potentially be replenished with a new SE swell next weekend arriving from tropical wave Invest 95L.